There is a yacht ‘moored’ in the centre of Courchevel 1850. A little odd as we are nearly 2,000m above sea level.

Further up the mountain is a BMW in a glass case next to an airstrip and helipad. Courchevel certainly isn’t trying to shake off the image that skiing is just a sport for the well-off.

The 1850 resort – the highest and most exclusive of four Courchevels in the French Alps – is a favourite winter spot for rich Russians.

For the first three weeks of the new year – which includes Russian New Year and Orthodox Christmas – the super-rich from the former Soviet Union take over the resort. (The yacht is a hangover from a new year party). Chelsea FC owner Roman Abramobich and prime minister Vladimir Putin are both rumoured to have holidayed here in recent years.

The resort also hosted the BMW Polio Masters and Ladies’ Alpine Ski Cup in December to raise its  profile even higher.

The four Courchevels – there is also 1350, 1550 and 1650 – are linked by ski runs, lifts and a free ski bus. The resort, which lies in the Three Valleys area that also includes Méribel and Val Thorens, is billed as the world’s largest skiable area, with 375 miles of pistes.

The lower slopes of 1850 are a decent mix of green and blue runs. Two of the best are blues Tovets and Stade, fast, sloping runs that start in the centre of 1850 and end in 1550.

There are half a dozen ways to ski down – wide open slopes or through the forests – so skiing them just once isn’t an option. They are both fun and challenging, heart-pumping and satisfying.

The slopes above and below the village centre are linked by a skiable tunnel so there is no need to stop as you descend more than 1,000m.

The highest point – the 2,700m Salure — gives panoramic views of the whole valley and across to Méribel, and is accessed by a huge cable car.

Getting back down is equally spectacular. Most will choose one of half a dozen reds that wind down the easterly side of the valley – Creux is a favourite that snakes its way back past the airport.

For a bigger thrill try the Grand Couloir, a 45 degree black run that is basically a 200m ridge of  ice accessed by jumping off the cable car platform. Not for the faint-hearted but there is always a steady stream of people waiting to take the plunge.

Food and drink don’t come cheap though – 10 euros a pint of beer, 13 euros for a basket of fries. The higher you go, the higher the prices.

But while everything has its price, there are some cheaper ways to have fun. The 1.5km luge run down to 1550 is just five euros for as many goes as you dare and one night a week the Verdons green run is flooded with light and music for a late-night ski experience with a lift pass at just six euros.

Next to the luge run is a children’s play area where the little ones can try out their new skis or slide down on a sledge. And best of all is the free main green run next to our hotel. Boots were 10 euros and a set of skis borrowed from the hotel.

All skiers with Flexiski have the chance of a guided two hours with a ski manager. Although no instruction is allowed, it is an ideal way to see the best of the resort’s runs without having to keep stopping to consult a piste map.

Pete, my guide, is pretty typical of the ski managers – a recent graduate who makes skiing look far too easy. For most of the two hours he is more of a distant marker post than guide as he easily negotiates the runs ahead of me.

The session is fun and useful – and passes far too quickly. I was lucky to have a one-on-one session and Pete was more than happy to carry on despite having an afternoon pick-up in Geneva – a six-hour round trip. If you need longer it is 80 euros for half a day, 160 euros for the day.

The Hotel Saint Louis is situated above the village centre and across the road from the free Bellecote green run. Getting straight onto the piste in the morning couldn’t be easier.

The food at the hotel is very much British, as are almost all of the staff. There is plenty of food – buffet breakfast, cake and coffee at 4pm, champagne and canapes at 7pm and a five-course evening meal.

House wine is only 15 euros but getting to the cheese platter is almost as much of a challenge as the Grand Couloir.

TRAVEL FACTS

Paul’s trip was courtesy of Flexiski. A four-night break in March starts at £545 and includes Easyjet flights from Manchester to Geneva, transfers and half board at the Hotel Saint Louis in Courchevel 1850.
Ski hire and lift passes extra. For full details, go to www.flexiski.com .

Tweet