THE Fat Loaf owners Paul Taylor and Timothy Wood discovered a shared love of good, reasonable food whilst working in the kitchens of The Lowry and Malmaison.

They joined forces to launch The Fat Loaf in January this year, and have started opening mid week.

You learn these things whilst chatting to the owners themselves.

Indeed, one of the distinguishing features of this BYOB restaurant is the refreshing service, particularly when compared to similar sized eateries, like Greens, whose staff seem so hurried that they barely have time to inhale.

Of course, youéve got to find the place first and this, unless youére a local, ainét easy. Nor does the modest faéade, which resembles a launderette, help matters.

Still the secret must be getting out somehow because there were a comfortable number of diners on the night we went.

After the flat externals the décor improves inside and is soothingly simple.

Wooden furniture and slate floor tiles are warmed by neon artwork. It's a relaxed affair, with couples and groups of all ages eating.

Starters range from classic Soda bread with home made chutney and brie (é4.50) to Crab linguine with chilli, lime and parsley (é5.80).

We opted for some spongy Lamb meatballs (é5) in a tomato and oregano sauce, topped with giant licks of papery parmesan and just-cooked courgette.

Satisfyingly varied, the vegetables and cheese added a modern touch to traditional flavours. My Salmon carpaccio (é5.50) featured very fresh raw salmon, cut thinly and 'cooked' in a lime dressing.

Billowing like pink sheets, the layers lacked the clagginess of smoked salmon, with the muted onion of the chives and crisp wisps of brushetta forming an inspired counterpoint to the fishy flavours.

The rushed presentation distracted only slightly from what was a fantastic combination.

Read the rest of this review in this week's City Life (issue 582) é1.50

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