CHICKEN tikka masala, Thai green curry, special fried rice, fajitas, even dim sum - foods from all corners of the world that we Brits have happily embraced.

And while I think I'd go a long way to find someone who didn't know what they liked to order at their local Chinese or Indian restaurant, for some reason, Japanese food is a different ball game.

Maybe it's a raw fish thing or perhaps it's the delicacy of the presentation that doesn't look quite robust enough for our stodgy appetites, there's definitely something which has led to a national shyness. Whatever the reason, I was determined to get more acquainted with healthy Japanese cuisine during a recent visit to the New Samsi in Whitworth Street - although I hadn't reckoned on the experience turning my water green. (More on this later).

While deciphering the menu, we braved some warm sake which was an interesting taste, much improved by being served warm.

The menu seemed at odds with the cool contemporary surroundings of the restaurant, featuring the sort of pictures of food you still sometimes get in old-fashioned Cantonese restaurants - images which always make the food look slightly congealed rather than a display of appealing morsels.

Instead of relying on the set banquet menus for our education, we decided to venture further into the menu in the hope of discovering something we might return to in the future.

We decided to let the chef decide on our starters by choosing his selection of sushi and norimaki (seaweed rolls). An attractive black platter arrived with a selection included salmon, beancurd and eel slices atop the lightly pressed sticky rice. Served with the usual slices of robust ginger and fiery wasabi paste, these 12 pieces (é11) were a welcome array of tastes and textures.

Spurred on, I choose the ginger teriyaki salmon (é8.95), which came with sticky rice and stir-fried vegetables. The teriyaki sauce had an interesting sweet overtone, similar to honey sauces, and complemented the flash of ginger in the cooked salmon. The stir-fried vegetables were nothing to get excited about (mostly beansprouts and pepper) but did complement the dish well.

Himself decided to go for a couple of different main course dishes - as advised by the menu - and enjoyed the skewer of succulent whole mushrooms (é2.75) and a mixed seafood yakimono skewer (é7.50). This came with another sweetish sauce, which set off the fish and prawn selection. To accompany this he ordered a side dish of Japanese lemon pepper rice, which was strong on the pepper and a substantial partner to have with fish.

We chose a bottle of pinot grigio (é16.50) to enjoy with this fishy selection.

Just before the desserts, a call of nature was required and the evening took something of a surreal turn. Following the directions for the toilets I suddenly found myself in a shop. Along with Japanese grocery goods, this Aladdin's cave seemed to be selling everything from frozen food to dinner services.

The basement floor of the restaurant has now been turned over to this opportunity for late night shopping.

Slightly bemused, opening the door to the ladies' toilets I found myself suddenly bathed in ultra-violet light. Murals on the wall jumped out like luminous decorations, the loo roll blazed a bright purple trail and yes it turns your water fluorescent green. It's the same in the gents I am assured.

After the jolt of the unexpected, it was back to the serious business of puds and it was good to see a choice, which wasn't just ice cream and fruit.

I went for the mixed Japanese sweets platter (7.95) while he plumped for the interesting-sounding apple tempura. I definitely got the best deal here, his apple was too chunky, hard, wrapped in a cold unappealing batter and smothered with what tasted like aerosol cream, while my platter had a range of treats.

The green tea ice-cream was refreshing and light while the various mounds of sweet, filled paste had a unique texture - like play-doh but delicious. In the centre of the platter was something that looked like a filled scotch pancake and again this had a paste centre. The selection was an education in itself and I will definitely be ordering desserts in Japanese restaurants in future.

Finishing up with a couple of coffees we were pleased, and a little surprised, to see the bill. At é72 we had enjoyed an evening that had proved to be unusual in more ways that one, but one that will definitely be repeated.

COOKING: Sushi and more.

STYLE: Sophisticated but informal.

PLUS: Unexpected shopping opportunity.

MINUS: That tempura batter.

VALUE: Good prices and cheaper than Japanese food is often thought to be.

New Samsi, Whitworth Street, Manchester (0161 279 0022).