WINES with Christmas dinner? The rule is that there are no rules. Anything goes... ut it is worth indulging yourself on this of all days, so push the boat out a little and enjoy.

Riesling isn't a choice that would spring immediately to mind to partner the festive feast, but Annie's Lane Riesling 2004 (Oddbins, é7.49) is such a treat that I'd deliberately put oysters or fresh prawns on my menu as a starter just to enjoy the aromas of limes, lemons and spring flowers and the fresh limey citrus flavours on the palate with that crisp, lingering finish.

The same goes for Fetzer Bonterra Chardonnay 2002 (Oddbins/Majestic/ Sainsbury's /Thesher /Booths, é7.99-é9.99) an organic wine from vineyards in California's Mendocino County. Not only will forward aromas of green apple, lemon and vanilla, the ripe pear and toasty-oak palate suit a creamy starter, but take on the roast turkey itself.

Though Freixenet is a brand mostly associated with sparkling cava, it has now launched new still wines in like with the changes sweeping through the Spanish industry. Freixenet Ash Tree Estate Chardonnay-Macebo 2003 (Tesco/Asda, é4.99) is a versatile, easy-drinking white made in the Penedes region of Catalonia but very much in the New World style. The red version, Freixenet Shiraz-Monastrell 2003 (Tesco/Asda, é5.49) offers soft, plum and blackberry fruit that will drink very well with turkey, pheasant or guinea fowl.

With roast turkey it's not so much the bird itself that challenges wines, but the spiciness of the stuffing, the richness of the cranberry sauce and the rest of the ``trimmings'' that are traditionally served with it. So the characteristic snap of pepper on the finish of Fetzer Bonterra Zinfandel 2001 (Majestic/Sainsbury's/Asda, é8.99) and the rich, soft brambly fruit is the perfect foil. Likewise the black fruit, herb aromas and spicy vanilla undertones of Santa Rita Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Majestic/Sainsbury's, é6.99), from Chile's Maipo Valley would fit the bill deliciously. Tweet