ASK a traditional European winemaker what he thinks of sort of pile 'em high, sell 'em cheap big-brand New World wines that are increasingly featuring as loss-leaders in most supermarkets these days and he'll snort about the tricks employed to cover up the "holes" in them.

Oak chips, powdered tannins, tartaric acid - a whole list of ingredients aimed at adding character to wines made in large volume from grapes grown in vineyards producing massive yields.

Experts predict that some New World producers are racing headlong for the cliff over which the German wine industry plummeted a decade ago. In a bid to boost production of low-priced wines, many a hock and liebfraumilch at the bottom end of the market amounted to little more than sugary water - with most of the sugar added afterwards. It matters not one jot that the Germans have always produced - and still do - some fabulous wines. Their share of a market once dominated, is now miniscule.

Nowhere in the New World is more at risk of the fate that befell the German wine industry is California, though the signs are ominous in Australia too. In California there is an enormous gulf between the cheap "carafe" wines mass produced by a handful of big brands and the Sunshine State's vinous aristos. At their worst, Californian wines can be bland and characterless. At their best they are sublime. And the clue really is price.

St Francis Vineyards and Winery, based in Sonoma County and named after the Franciscan Friars who planted California's first grapes there, doesn't make wines to suit supermarket é3.99 price points (with a big enough margin to lop off a quid on promotion). In fact St Francis Merlot 1999, available from selected Sainsbury's stores, tips the scales at a mighty é14.99. So what's so good that you could buy five bottles of Blossom Hill for the same money?

Well this is a merlot allowed its full varietal expression in a distinctive Sonoma style, offering perfumed aromas of plummy black fruit with spicy herb and vanilla nuances. On the palate the fruit is rich and full with hints of chocolate set in a structure of generous, round tannins stretching to a persistent, mouth-filling finish.

St Francis Old Vines Zinfandel 1999 (selected Sainsbury's, é13.49) is made from grapes grown on vines that are at least 50 years old which yield as little as one tonne per acre. That means that the grapes that are produced hold exceptionally concentrated flavours, ensuring that this is a big, bold "zinf" that's rich in character and texture with layers of complex flavours unfolding on the palate. Taste delicious black cherry and raspberry jam enhanced by spicy toasted oak and black pepper. St Francis Sonoma County Chardonnay (selected Sainsbury's, é13.49) exhibits aromas of peach and melon with vanilla oak notes, followed by a rich, peaches and cream palate balanced by citrus acidity.

Current promotions well worth noting clip 50p off a brace of south east Australian wines that are certainly not run of the mill. Tortoiseshell Bay Semillon Sauvignon 2003 is a rounded, fruity dry white with melon and guava flavours cut by a refreshing citrus edge and Tortoiseshell Bay Mouvédre-Shiraz has bags of accessible soft yet spicy plum and blackberry fruit well suited to barbecued ribs or burgers.

Both wines are on offer at Somerfield until July 20.

RAY KING

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