THINK modern European dining in Manchester and there is, almost without exception, one of only two choices: the good or the bad.

There’s the ambitious and perfectly executed, such as like the almost universally praised cuisine of Paul Heathcote’s Grado (which nevertheless failed to light Observer critic Jay Rayner’s fire).

Then there’s the infinitely less ambitious city centre ‘tapas joint’ complete with the familiar ‘ping’ of the microwave to herald the arrival of your curly chorizo sausages bathed in processed tomato.

So it was with mild trepidation and a little excitement that we approached the prospect of three courses of modern European cuisine at Blacksticks, on a drizzly Sunday afternoon.

The restaurant, which opened a year ago as one of Monton’s more ambitious venues, is the culmination of 35 years of combined experience of veteran chefs John Doyle and Matt Walsh.

Though it is their first restaurant, having previously been well-versed in high-end corporate cooking, after many years working together at Manchester United’s North Stand, their ambition is to make Blacksticks a destination restaurant and to lure city-types, as well as village-folk, with seasonal, high-end food at reasonable prices.

I have to admit, that our trepidation increased slightly on sight of Blacksticks.

Upwardly-ambitious

While parts of the slightly upwardly-ambitious village of Monton are attractive and leafy – with the country feel of the quite recently refurbished Waterside enjoying a pleasant canalside location not far away – Blacksticks looks out on to a loose gravelled high street. And with its expansive windows and overly glossy black sign, it looked not unlike some form of showroom.

Fortunately the interior of the restaurant was much more in keeping with its ambition. With its polished wooden floors, black wooden high-backed chairs, plush cream cushions and bold deep red accent wall, it was both inviting and elegant.

Bathed with the greyish light of a drizzly afternoon the restaurant looked chic and polished, but to my mind those dark woods and deep reds better suited the darkness, candlelight and glamour of late evening dining. And judging by the number of gleaming, untouched tables, it seemed the locals agreed. But as I learned whilst trying to book a table, Bank Holidays are a no-no and Sunday dining ceases at 6.30pm.

With the restaurant not at its busiest we plumped for the best people-watching seat in the house.

And since the inspiration for their bewitchingly-named restaurant was not steeped in folklore but was inspired by a make of wine, we felt it would have been rude not to turn our attention to the wine list.

The selection is nicely balanced with offerings from France, Italy and further afield, edited neatly to fill just one page for reds and for whites, plus two varieties of rosé on offer.

Glass of sweet, crisp rosé in hand, the next little journey was via the food menu. And its fare does not limit itself with the constraints of modern Europe.

Instead it takes in influences from as far afield as Thailand, for their red cream sauce and India for their risotto. and Eton, for their ‘Mess’.

If it lacked a little focus it was certainly intriguing, and on a rainy afternoon the early birds menu offered great value, with three courses – mostly taken from the pricier à la carte menu – for just £15.

I plumped for the juicy Buffalo mozzarella stuffed with piperadé vegetables wrapped in Parma ham, £5.95, which was elegantly presented with fresh, crisp and beautifully dressed rocket.

The Parma ham itself was thin, with a delicious, slightly woody flavour. It and benefited from streaks of juicy fat, while a fork into the firm and juicy mozazarella released a trickle of creamy flavour on to the plate.

Opposite me, a thick and buttery parsnip soup was being eagerly devoured with thick crusty bread. And even his over-vigorous application of black pepper didn’t deter him from wiping his plate until it sparkled.

Satisfaction

For mains I had been tempted by the satisfaction of a deliciously meaty fish and had opted for seared tuna fillet served with sautéed baby spinach and roast sweet potato finished with a Thai red cream sauce, £13.95, without fully considering the array of sweet flavours comprised in one dish.

The first bite of that tuna was beautiful – a grainy, subtle crunch to the outside, with the moist and fleshy pink interior perfectly retained. With the tuna towering on top of a pile of buttered spinach that seeped slightly into the creamy and slightly-too-delicately spiced sauce, the dish was attractively presented.

The more-ish roast sweet potato was wisely served separately and seasoned with a (probably-not-very) healthy dash of salt. But its sweetness magnified by the sweet and creamy Thai sauce that craved an extra bite of chilli. I enjoyed the plates more when eaten separately.

His seared pork loin steak and grilled black pudding served on a potato rosti with roast carrots was finished with a creamy wholegrain mustard jus, which had considerably more of a violent kick than my meal, courtesy of the mustard-seed. The moist and delicious pork, which arrived atop the rosti, was complemented by the sweet and juicy carrots and spicy jus, making a well-balanced dish.

Polite

As the staff cleared away our plates, they were polite and attentive to a fault, even offering us a breather between the main course and dessert. I hadn’t loosened my belt – despite temptation – so I can only assume the generous portions have been known to defeat less tenacious diners than myself and my gastro-enthusiast – OK, gannet – husband.

But the prospect of white chocolate cheesecake served with strawberry compote, for £4.50, had spurred us both on and when it arrived – with two forks – we weren’t disappointed.

What may have looked like a neatly presented New York cheesecake had probably 200g worth of hidden depths – the rich, high-quality white chocolate that had been blended into the cheesecake topping.

And despite its intense sweetness, the slightly salty bite of the base and the mild acidity of the strawberries ensured that it was not too over-powering.

It is in these subtle balances that Blacksticks so often excels, where restraint meets creativity, unlike where unbridled enthusiasm can occasionally lead.

Blacksticks certainly falls between the two strands of modern European cuisine, in its own category much closer to great than bad.

As it is, it is a welcome addition to Monton’s dining scene but if it keeps developing, ideally focusing exclusively on European cuisine, it could definitely become a destination.

Blacksticks, 221 Monton Rd, Monton, Manchester M30 9PN. Tel: 0161 788 7227 or go to blacksticksonline.com.