CASINOS and countryside campaigners make strange bedfellows, I'm sure you'll agree, but our own Manchester 235 is doing its bit to promote wild boar. Ryan Jackson, head chef at 235's high end eaterie Linen, has made it the centrepiece of his spring menu. A recent change in legislation allows diners greater access to this gamey tasting pork meat - a boost to the rural economy after the fox-hunting ban.

"This is a versatile and traditional British meat with a long-standing history," says Ryan. "I've always been a fan. I'm looking forward to seeing what our regulars make of it. I'm preparing the steak with smoked paprika dauphinoise, braised red cabbage and sweet onion. It's up to sommelier Stephen Bond to recommend a suitable wine. He likes a challenge!"

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A recent visit to Linen, in the bowels of the Great Northern Warehouse, confirmed a kitchen contending to be best in the city. Other tempations in the spring menu included fellbred beef, particularly the chateaubriand to share, and braised shank of Swaledale lamb. For non-carnivores, risottos of pumpkin for veggies and lobster for fish-eaters, are sublime, as are pan-seared North Coast scallops with wilted baby spinach crisp leeks and saffron butter.

Linen has, of course, always been a slightly daunting destination because to dine there you have to be a casino member, but anyone over 18 can get free membership within minutes with a valid driving licence or passport. Visit manchester 235.com for further details.

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