THE first venue of a fast expanding national chain, Prohibition has been a staple for the dressed up Deansgate crowd since it opened. In 2008 it still packs out on a Saturday night, though the vibe is less exclusive than it once was.

Situated adjacent to Kendals, it's in the heartland of hairdresser country where good grooming and layers of labels aren't optional, they're successful socialising essentials. And this dolled-up crowd are powerless in the face of Prohibition's gravitational pull.

Inside the bar the décor is gothic opulent: candelabras, gilt-framed mirrors, secluded booths and flickering candlelight creating a sexy, speakeasy ambience.

Which, of course, is in keeping with the overriding theme. As its name suggests, Prohibition was named after the period between 1920 and 1933 when alcohol was banned in the United States. Ironically, it was during this time that that some of the world's best loved libations emerged - as bartenders experimented with mixers to take the edge off home brewed and often poor quality spirits. And whilst the spirits might be of better provenance in 2008, the enthusiasm for mixology lives on in this bar.

So to the cocktail list. Appropriately it features some Twenties style classics: the Tom Collins and Gimlet caught CityLife's eye and pleased our palate. But as with any good cocktail bar you can go off menu here; tell the bartender what you like and they'll make informed suggestions. Or if you're feeling flush, or flash, or a combination of the two, have your drink pimped with super-premium ingredients such as Belvedere vodka.

On the down side, Prohibition does take itself quite seriously: as evidenced by the trainer unfriendly dress code (surely attitude is a better arbiter of acceptability these days than shiny shoes?) and the surly bar staff who may make mean Mojitos, but they're damned if they'll crack a smile while they're doing it.

Prohibition, 2-10 Mary Street, off Deansgate, Manchester (0161 831 9326).

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